3 thoughts on “Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L ll USM contact for Canon EF digital cameras

  1. Amazon Customer
    164 of 168 people found the following review helpful
    5.0 out of 5 stars
    Does exactly what its supposed to…a great UWA Zoom., September 30, 2009
    By 
    Amazon Customer (Anchorage, Alaska) –

    This review is from: Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L ll USM Zoom Lens for Canon EF Cameras (Camera)
    I’ve read some pretty critical reviews of this lens; from my perspective some of these could be due to an occasional bad copy, but others are likely due to the owner expecting way too much from a UWA zoom lens. Most complaints center on lack of corner sharpness and/or light fall off/vignetting at the wide end and wide apertures. I’ve owned and extensively tested 4 high end UWA Zooms to date now; the Canon 16-35 f2.8 L II, the 17-40 f4 L, the EF-s 10-22, and the Nikon 14-24 2.8 ED (the accepted gold standard for UWA Zooms), and can tell you that the Nikon is the only one that can reasonably (but not perfectly) hold the corners at the extreme wide ends of FL and aperture. Not surprisingly however the Nikon is yet another $400-$500 more expensive than the 16-35II (even more when you factor in the adapter to shoot on a Canon). In real world shooting at f/8 to f/16 however, I can confidently state that you are not going to see any meaningful difference between the 4 lenses without resorting to some serious pixel peeping gymnastics, and even then I’ll gladly take bets that most couldn’t tell the unlabeled photos apart. So confident in fact that I finally traded in my revered Nikon for an excellent copy of the 16-35II.

    Yes, this lens exhibits some corner softness and light fall off at the wide end and/or at f2.8, however this starts to clear up nicely even as low as f/4 and is gone by f/8. By comparison, if you really want an eye opener, look at the vignetting on the 17-40 wide open (f/4) – two thirds of the image is dark with only a small central spot unaffected (incidentally, those that post that the 17-40 suffers no corner vignetting are probably shooting JPEG and not examining the RAW image). Contrast this to the 16-35 wide open at f/2.8 where only the extreme edges and corners are dark. Same with corner softness, it does exist at f/2.8 but clears up nicely by f/8. In all cases, if you shoot this lens at the same settings as the 17-40, it outperforms its smaller cousin in all aspects (and the 17-40 an excellent lens in its own right). The 16-35 is more than just a 17-40 that goes to f/2.8, it is a significant improvement at all apertures and focal lengths.

    I did some extensive testing with filters and found, contrary to claims in other reviews, no detectible difference in vignetting between a slim or regular UV filter at the 16mm wide end. Maybe there is a slight difference that some purists can see, but for the life of me I can’t tell the difference, so I use a regular thickness filter for the convenience of being able to use the normal dust cap. The 82mm filter size is also often cited as a point of criticism. Yes, 82mm filters are larger and more expensive, but that’s the price you pay for a lens with these specifications. At least this lens will accept filters, try that with the Nikon. Finally, I’ve also heard criticism that this lens starts to go soft above 24mm, but I personally haven’t seen any evidence of this either. Maybe those are bad copy issues again? But mine is perfectly sharp (stunningly sharp in the center) throughout the entire range.

    In short, if you absolutely must have a UWA Zoom that has razor sharp corners at f/2.8, you’re going to need to go to other extreme measures such as the Nikon 14-24 or maybe a Zeiss, but then you’ve got all of the manual focus/exposure issues to deal with. In most real world applications at f/8 to f/16, this lens easily holds it’s own against the Nikon 14-24 and definitely edges out the 17-40. In my experience, if I am shooting at f/2.8, I’m likely trying to blur the background anyway, so why would I care if the corners are soft? And if shooting in low light I can’t notice the vignetting in the corners either. In any case, it’s easily corrected in DPP anyway.

    0

    Help other customers find the most helpful reviews 

    Was this review helpful to you? Yes
    No

    Reply
  2. George
    268 of 285 people found the following review helpful
    5.0 out of 5 stars
    Modest improvement mostly for full frame users, January 6, 2008
    By 
    George (Salt Lake City, Utah) –

    This review is from: Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L ll USM Zoom Lens for Canon EF Cameras (Camera)
    I have owned both this and the original version. The new lens is better in the corners and flares less but the corners are still a little soft at f2.8 and you can get the lens to flare a little if you try. I haven’t seen the loss of clarity above 20mm that others reported. Perhaps you would see a slight difference in eyelashes if you did a lot of portraits but this is probably not the best choice for a portrait lens. It is a somewhat better lens for shooting landscapes and other shots where edge to edge clarity is important.

    But the differences between the two versions are minor and in some instances irrelevant. If you don’t shoot a full frame camera the soft edges don’t appear in the photo. And flare is a minimal issue at most. It rarely appears and is easy to fix in Photoshop if it does. I would opt for the original if I didn’t shoot full frame based on the price difference alone.

    My only problem with the original was when I had to shoot hand held. Sometimes you can’t bring a tripod along which rules out shooting at f16 or 22 so I occasionally ended up with shots that were soft in some of the edges. The new lens will solve that. That is the only reason I decided to upgrade.

    I haven’t used many other lenses in the same range so I can’t compare quality with other makers but I’m not aware of anything reputed to be better. I have Canon primes as well as other Canon zooms and in actual use all are generally close in quality. I use the primes if possible when I plan to crop or enlarge a lot but I could still get by nicely with the zooms.

    So, if you shoot less than full frame or if price is an issue, get the original. If you shoot full frame but need maximum clarity in the center (portraits for example), test both versions first. If you shoot full frame and need maximum edge to edge clarity, go with the new lens.

    Update: Having shot this lens for a long period I would discount the comments about problems above 20mm. I owned the first version as well and I don’t see a difference in the 20mm to 35mm range. On the contrary, I am increasingly impressed with the image quality and sharpness of this lens throughout the range. I recently used it into a very narrow slot canyon where I couldn’t take more than the camera and the lens attached to it and took shots from 16mm up to 35mm that all came out very sharp and rich. Granted I wasn’t shooting wide open because I needed lots of depth of field but the point is the lens delivered the best shots of that trip. In terms of versatility, this lens is unmatched for wide angle use by Canon owners. I also have the 14mm f2.8 II, 17mm f4. TS/E and 15mm fisheye for comparison. This is the one wide angle lens I always take along.

    0

    Help other customers find the most helpful reviews 

    Was this review helpful to you? Yes
    No

    Reply
  3. G. Mann
    78 of 84 people found the following review helpful
    5.0 out of 5 stars
    Excellent lens for CINEMA as well as stills, makes all the difference, March 8, 2010
    By 
    G. Mann
    (REAL NAME)
      

    Verified Purchase(What’s this?)
    This review is from: Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L ll USM Zoom Lens for Canon EF Cameras (Camera)
    Allow me to fill in a little niche gap here. Obviously this is a great lens for still photographers, but for all of the DSLR filmmakers out there who are having trouble with lackluster and muddy video results, the problem lies not with your camera; you need to step up to the L-Series glass. The primary issue with the 7D, 5D Mark II, etc. is the chunky artifacting and pixellation that comes from the poor compression codec built into the processor, or so we all thought. However, the key is, primarily, the quality of the glass in front of the sensor. This lens seems to nullify nearly ALL of the drawbacks of the HD video processing in my 7D. I can expand frame grabs up to 4k resolution, and they still hold up! 2K and 3K looks fantastic. THE GLASS MAKES THE DIFFERENCE. It’s borderline magical.
    This lens is nice and fat, just like a cinema lens, and therein lies much of its power. The bigger glass allows more light to enter into the sensor, giving the camera more “information” to pack into the frame, whereas with cheap, small lenses, the sensor has to essentially blow up and extract a muddy image from a tiny window. Drop the contrast, sharpness, and saturation settings to zero, add some L-Series glass, and your DSLR video can compete with Genesis, Viper, and can even hold its own against Red, at 1/10th of the cost.
    This lens is perfect for the 7D’s APS-C sensor. With the 5D, vignetting is a bit of an issue wide open. The focal range is perfect for walk-around footage, steadicam shots, and wide-angle effects shots. Consider this an essential range.

    If you want professional-quality video, you need to have L-Lenses. I no longer care about the cost…I am immediately replacing my lens lineup with L-Series glass. I can’t believe I’ve run a photo/video business for 6 years without L lenses! Besides, compared to other lens manufacturers, L-Series lenses are actually quite cheap. I’ve had the benefit of comparing this with Panavision lenses and I can assure you, there’s no significant difference in the results. NONE. This is a gold mine for independent filmmakers.
    Shell out the cash. AND be sure to add a few hundred more to the cost of this lens, in the form of high-quality filters! Protect your glass! And do it properly…there is no point in spending $1k+ on a lens if you’re going to ruin it and put a piece of plexi-glass in front of it…just because you want to save $50. Get a $100 multi-coated (MRC) UV filter from B+W and just think of it as an insurance policy on your lens. Put on the filter the moment you take out your lens and never take it off.

    Happy shooting! You will love this baby.

    0

    Help other customers find the most helpful reviews 

    Was this review helpful to you? Yes
    No

    Reply

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *